12/7/2022 0 Comments Ocean waves![]() ![]() They are typically generated by an underwater geological event, such as an earthquake, volcanic eruption, or a submarine landslide. Tsunamis are long-period oceanic waves driven by gravitational force. The terms "tidal waves" and "tsunamis" are sometimes used interchangeably, but this is not technically accurate. Tidal waves are considered predictable events because ocean tides are predictable events. Tidal waves are generated by ocean tides and therefore indirectly by the gravitational forces of the moon and sun. Unlike gravity waves, gravitational waves are disturbances in the curvature of spacetime itself, originally described by Einstein and proven in 2016 by physicists at the LIGO Lab) (Note: "gravity waves" should not be confused with "gravitational waves". Swell waves are an example of gravity waves, or oscillations of matter driven by gravitational force. Such energy can enable swells to travel thousands of miles across the ocean without changes in height or shape, until they reach a distant shore as breaking waves. Over time and distance, sustained wind strength and duration build up a large amount of energy beneath the ocean’s surface, forming deeper waves known as swells. The relationship between wind and waves is particularly evident here, with larger waves (the red areas) often forming in and following concentrated regions of strong winds. The base layer is Significant Wave Height and the contour lines are Wind Gusts in knots. They are directly caused by the wind in that location.īelow is a 7-day forecast visualized with 2 different Spire WMS layers. Wind waves are caused by the friction between local winds and surface water. Frequency: the number of waves that cross a fixed point in a given amount of time.Period: the time between successive swell crests.Amplitude: the distance between the crest or the trough to the still water line in between.Height: the distance between a wave's crest and trough.What are the types of ocean waves? An explanation of ocean wave types and characteristics. ![]()
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